Thanks, Garth And Linda!

I had no idea there was such a difference between brands. It's almost outrageous that they all should be called "raw umber." The Mussini (natur hell) and Old Holland look yellow to me when lightened. A couple more look like a slightly yellowish brown. This is so interesting! I have been using W&N which is probably the most neutral of all, and I assumed there was at least a reasonable consistency between brands.

Garth, this is terrific! Thank you!

Garth - you are SO dang handy to have around! This is great - thank you!

Would you think about doing this with every other color please? You know - when you get a free month or so?

Garth,
I had no idea that the variations were that many either. The Raw Umber I used was from a Danish firm called Artifix. It is also in the cool end of the scale and does not show the yellow that much. I think that it looks like your # 2 and it is also a heavy tinter. The Umber I have been using the most is from Daler-Rowney, it is more yellow, but I ran out of it.

Alex,
I also use the Raw Umber as a neutral and find it very useful. In the company of reds and bright ochers in the skintones it is a wonderful cool neutral, and I do not disagree with you in that or anything else for that matter. My prime interest, in here, besides of the excelent company, is to learn. :)

Allan

I make your words mine Kim.

I noticed that variation long ago so I started using the Louvre and Old Holland brands. I'd like to see the same procedure with the other colors too.

I'd like to add my thanks too, Garth. After seeing these I plan on replacing my current raw umber with one of the more vibrant brands. What a difference!

Jean

yellow in shadows
 

I think Linda's use of yellow ochre to lighten shadows is an interesting offshoot of this topic, and I would also like to hear whether other artists do this, and if they use yellow in shadows at all.

I use cadmiums a lot in shadows, especially cad yellow, yellow deep, and orange. I find the cadmiums useful in painting the indirect light which is seen as an object turns away from the direct sunlight, and the continuation of that color as a minor player in the shadow. I mix these colors with their complements, the shadow colors. I find that the addition of cadmium to the shadows makes the shadow deeper and more transparent. If I add yellow, it can lighten a shadow and warm it, but it doesn't take away from the illusion of depth or airy quality. My only problems with cadmiums is that they photograph very bright, and even when I get my paintings photographed professionally, I sometimes get frustrated because they look a lot less subtle than the color of the actual painting.

Desperately seeking yellow!
 

Garth,

I had no idea that there was so much difference in brands of raw umber! The problem is, now you've started something. ;) I am searching for a clean yellow. I've read about and used yellow ochre since day one, but it has a tendency to be muddy (W&N especially), and can dull colors. So in my search for a clean, warm, not glow-in-the-dark yellow, I have tried:
Maimeri Naples Yellow Deep- I love this color and use it for light mixtures, but is too light for lower values
Daniel Smith Yellow Ochre-the closest thing I've found but I'd like something cleaner
Maimeri Golden Lake- great yellow that does not turn blonds into greens but is a bit too orange and strong for flesh--but perfect for blond hair
Old Holland Naples Yellow Deep Extra- again too orange
Cennini Jaune Brilliant- a pretty & high pigment yellow, but still brighter than I'm looking for.

I'm looking for a clean, earthy warm yellow that isn't muddy or overpowering. Suggestions? Does one exist or am I doomed to mixing different yellows for eternity?

Thanks in advance,

Renee

Garth, Renaissance man -

Color maestro, technical maven, and master painter -
how do you have time to do it all?

Thanks for this newest paint brand review! I've learned a lot from the other ones you've done on this forum over the years, and want you to know it's really appreciated.

I like naples yellow to lighten darks also. Thanks Garth, good thread.