How do you "fix" Giclee copies?

[Richard Budig]

How do you fix Giclee copies of your art?

I'm not sure in which topic this belongs. Thought I'd start here.

I use a spray called Bulldog, which sets the water soluble inks. That's all I used to use. Now, however, I use an acrylic varnish you can buy at the hardware store. It is put out by Minnwax, and called, I believe, acrylic varnish.

I'm not sure this is the best stuff to use, though.

What do you use? How do you prepare Giclee reproductions on canvas, watercolor paper, or rice paper?

[Leslie Ficcaglia]

Richard, I've had gicl

[Richard Budig]

Leslie:

No, I don't make my own prints. I have a professional do them here in Tulsa, OK. He uses archival inks, and prints (very economically, I might add) on canvas, watercolor paper, or rice paper. I have most of my work done on canvas.

His prices are extremely low, compared to other places -- around $7.50 to $16.00 for the scan, and ten cents per square inch for the copies. He can print up to 44 X 90 inches.

But the thing about Giclee inks is this: Those inks are WATER SOLUBLE. In other word, if a sprits of water hits the face of the copy, the ink will run.

I buy a special spray called Bulldog spray. It's nasty smelling. I do it out in the barn, and then leave. After I've done that, I paint on an acrylic varnish. Between the two processes, the ink is then sealed and protected.

[Leslie Ficcaglia]

Richard, I seem to recall one of the gicl

[Michele Rushworth]

When I've had giclees printed on canvas the place that printed them recommended Krylon spray (which I believe is acrylic). That's what I've been using.

[Leslie Ficcaglia]

I spoke with the fellow who's doing a gicl

[Richard Budig]

Michelle, others:

Au contraire, the Frenchman said.

I recently left a couple of giclee canvas prints out in the barn overnight, and lo, it rained, and (you guessed it) it dripped on one of my canvasses. The repeated drop of rain, stripped a spot the length of the canvas. It was nearly white at the top, graduating to a darker, but obvious, run the length of the canvas.

Perhaps there are different inks out there, but this has made me quite skittish about my giclees until I have fixed them with the Bulldog spray that I use, followed by the acrylic varnish I use, which, by the way, is made by Minnwax. It comes in dull, semi-gloss, and gloss. If you try the Minnwax be sure the ink has been thoroughly set before applying the liquid varnish, or you'll have more runs.

One way to check the inks your guy is using would be to see if he'll give you a strip of canvas that didn't turn out for him, and put it in or under water and see what happens.

I don't want to be an alarmist, but it's too, too late AFTER your painting has run.

[Will Enns]

I do printing like you describe for some other artists, and myself. My printer is an Epson 7600 which prints up to 24" wide, on any of the mentioned media.

I use the Epson Ultrachrome inkset which is designed for archival fine art work..

The whole point of printing on canvas is that the print look like an oil painting, which of course, should not be behind glass. So it must be protected with varnish.

I have had good results with the Golden solvent based varnish with UVSL, an ingredient that further protects the print from ultraviolet damage. The varnish dries in about 6 hours, and does not react with the Ultrachrome inks. Such varnish is available in any well stocked art store. It can even be applied by brush. It is available in aerosol or liquid form. I would recommend the aerosol for most artists who wish to protect their prints.

Acrylic based varnish is also available from Golden, ***but to use it is risky.*** If the varnish is applied too thickly, it will react with the inks, and destroy the print. On the upside, the acrylic varnish dries very quickly, and the canvas is ready for stretching within an hour under decent drying conditions. This varnish ***must*** be sprayed.

I do not recommend using acrylic varnish unless you are very confident in your ability to spray very light coats. It takes only one second of inattention to destroy a print. I know about this - I've done it. But once the varnish is dry, it is very tough. I have often painted over this varnish with waterclors, which would otherwise destroy the print. Again, I would recommend the aerosol, unless you have a spraying system. Don't try to brush the acrylic varnish on a giclee print.

A good way to cover yourself if you are having printing done is to have the printmaker apply the varnish. If he wrecks a print, he would be responsible to replace it.

I do this for my artists for about $10/print, which covers my time.

[Richard Budig]

Will:

Thanks for your insights. It's good to hear from someone who actually does the work.

Have you heard of this Bulldog Spray. I got onto it from the guy who does my Giclee work. It's made by Triangle. It is made specifically for "protecting digital photo images printed on photo glossy paper, Giclee prints, reproduction on canvas, inkjet paper and bonded art paper," according the can.

I found Triangle by doing a Google, if I remember correctly.

So far, it's the only thing I've found that will "fix" the ink. After thoroughly fixing the ink, I can go back and paint the acrylic varnish with a brush. But, if you hven't fixed the ink, it will run.

Which spray acrylic varnish to you use or recommend?

I'm always jittery until I get my Giclee's fixed and varnished.

[Michele Rushworth]

I have used Krylon acrylic spray with satisfactory results.