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Steven, I was struck by your remark, "the museum of contemporary art was generally full of echoes."
My husband and I were fortunate enough to take our first trip to Paris last year and of course we visited the Louvre and Musee D'Orsay with its magnificent collection of impressionists and the like. The Orsay was packed and the Louvre had hours long lines to get in.
Across town, in a grubby little commercial neighborhood stands a huge monstrosity of a building housing the contemporary art - and it was MUCH less crowded. Not quite echoes, but a lot of almost empty rooms. Hmmm...
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