Olive oil for cleaning brushes?

[Steven Sweeney]

I want to emphasize that the Carlson reference is not intended to discount the intervening research that shows kerosene to be neurotoxic, as are various other substances we use as solvents.

Some folks are much more sensitive to this than others. I think I could probably drink turpentine without ill effects (assuming the use of a good, fresh lime), but my use of it in painting in a studio setting used to make a fellow student, working some distance from me, actually break out in hives.

Individual decisions have to be made based on circumstances and preferences. And of course the piper will have to be paid.

[Peter J. Fasi]

I have been using Mineral / Baby oil for some time now, because it is fairly inexpensive, because the smell doesn't smell so oily and because it works. I simply fill half my cleaning jar with it and swirl the brush against the wire mesh in order to clean off the paint. The paint particles simply drop to the bottom and the oil stays pretty clear for a very long time (depending on how often you paint). In between session I pour the 'used' oil through a coffee filter into a similar sized jar, transfer the screen and lid to the other jar and I'm ready to go.
I don't have to be concerned about toxicity. I conditioning the brushes as I use them, and it wipes off cleanly without any oily residue.

For me, this is amuch better alternative than the water-miscable oils.
I tried using them and did not like the feel (too sticky). I also prefer to have a much larger choice of traditional oils, in larger sizes.

Best of all, my wife no longer complains about the awful smell (unless I use certain Winton oils, which for some reason are particularly pungent).

[Marvin Mattelson]

Peter,

Baby oil never dries so you need to be very careful to remove all residue as this will weaken your paint film. That's why I use co;ld pressed walnut oil to clean my brushes.

[Peter J. Fasi]

Thanks for the info. I always wipe the brush vigorously between paint application, so it shouldn't pose a problem. I'll check out the walnut oil, though.

[Geary Wootten]

I've been hand lettering and pin-striping for 33 years. What I was taught from some of the best "1-shot

[Marvin Mattelson]

I just wanted to clarify that I use the method I do for cleaning synthetic brushes. It's my experience that any type of solvent will prematurely age them. I use the Silver Ruby Satins and the Winsor Newton Galleria rounds. Cleaning them with M Graham walnut oil followed by ivory soap seems to do the trick for me.

[Peter J. Fasi]

Where do you get it? I did a quick search of all the online vendors in my favorites list and came up empty.

[Patt Legg]

I just had to get in here on this one even though I have not participated for awhile.

Peter, I agree with you . I have been using Baby Oil for years. The only difference is that also immediately wash out ALL of the oil til squeaky clean with Dawn Dish Liquid. I should do a commercial for all of the times that I have used Dawn and told all of my students to do so. They come back with wonderful comments. Some say that they tried my plan on old brushes and made them usable again.

So, thumbs up on Baby Oil and Dawn. I have saved brushes for years due to that I believe.

Marvin, I do agree too that one needs to clean out the oily content no matter what anyone uses. Also, in my studio, I often use Turpenoid to clean and still finish with Dawn.