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03-05-2007, 05:59 AM
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#1
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: London,UK
Posts: 640
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Mike, I think I should definetely buy a better lens. I did not have my tripod with me (imagine travelling for Christmas by plane with three kids, presents, a couple of paintings, etc).
I have fallen out of love with my D50 a little. Mainly that is because, despite taking photos in the same way as I always had, I struggle in obtaining good images of my works.
The colours, the reds usually, but also blues are over saturated and not faithful, despite my attempts at adjusting the white balance. And then I have to mess about with the photo in photoshop and I don't always get it right.
I have the lens that comes with the camera, 18-55, but I think it is not the one I need. People don't always have big spaces for posing (this house was the case) and I tend to do portraits that include hands, so I have to squeeze somewhere in a corner and am not always in control of the situation.
Since you are our digital guru, can you suggest me a lens that would perform acceptably both in taking photos of the paintings and do portrait work from quite a close distance without too much distortion?
Ilaria
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03-05-2007, 10:07 PM
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#2
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PHOTOGRAPHY MODERATOR SOG Member '03 Finalist Taos SOPA '03 HonMen SoCal ASOPA '03 Finalist SoCal ASOPA '04 Finalist Taos SOPA
Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,674
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Regarding the photographing of your artwork - I have had my best results using the methods described in this thread:
http://forum.portraitartist.com/showthread.php?t=6773
White balance is the bugaboo for digital cameras. This is typically the reason our colors don't interpret well in our paintings. I think we are much more sensitive to the colors in our paintings than we are on the subjects we photograph. It was no different with film except we had no way of controlling the temperature of light except with a broad swipe as we purchased the roll. Having done that we were locked in for the 24, 36 images. The digital SLR gives you the means to custom fit the light temperature per image. With so much flexibility it can be bothersome figuring out just what the conditions are and then finding and making the proper adjustment.
Regarding lenses - The usual advice you get is to buy the most expensive lens you can afford. Lenses are mostly priced on how well they gather light, or how "fast" the lens. Personally, I would love to have the most expensive lens out there, but realistically I think you can do the job with something much more modest. I have been pleased with the lens that came on my D70, and my old lens that I used on my Nikon film camera stills serves me well and it's not expensive by any means.
Your concerns about small rooms is real. I find that I can do all the work that's presented to me with two lenses: my lens which is a similar zoom as you describe, 18-55mm (which has a 1.5 multiplier in the 35mm nomenclature), and a more telephoto 70-210mm that I use more in the out of doors. The shorter lens is a necessity in the small confined spaces you describe. In a twelve foot room you would be hard pressed to get anything but a head and shoulder with the short end of the 70-210 (70 becoming 105). You should be fine with the lens you describe in confined spaces as it relates to focal length. If as you compose your image you find that your focal length has dropped below 33mm (50mm after the multiplier) then you're bumping on the edge of distortion and you've got to be aware of how you've composed your subject. This 33mm is however a pretty wide angle and should accommodate the smaller spaces.
Even though it would be nice to have an expensive, fast lens I have managed for many years with what could only be described as mediocre equipment. We must do the best we can with what we can afford. It would be no trouble finding a nice $1000-1500 lens for your Nikon. I've never had anything close to that. My advice, unless you've got the money, is to squeeze all you can out of your lens by understanding just what their capabilities and limitations are. I can imagine that it would be a real drag having purchased all the finest equipment and then realizing that your pictures are still lousy. At this point I still have my equipment to blame.
__________________
Mike McCarty
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03-06-2007, 01:10 AM
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#3
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Juried Member
Joined: May 2005
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 327
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I know I mentioned this lens somewhere else on the forum, but now that I have it, I really can't recommend it enough! It's the Nikkor 50mm f1.8. I tell you, it kicks butt for low light situations, and it cost me under $130. For twice the price, you can get the 50mm f1.4.
There's no zoom, but that does not bother me any. I just move myself.
I put the camera on shutter priority, and set it fast enough that I don't have to worry about blur, but so that it is still getting enough light. I can take handheld photos with available/low light and it's great. It also gives you that nice soft background.
Also, it has nearly no distortion, and I have found it reproduces the colors in my paintings very well. Of course, I have the D80.
Here's a review of the lens: http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/len..._ais/index.htm
Here are 2 pics I took the first day I got the lens, handheld, with available light from one small, north-facing window. I could've gone even faster here.
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03-06-2007, 01:15 AM
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#4
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Juried Member
Joined: May 2005
Location: Kansas City, KS
Posts: 327
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03-06-2007, 05:08 AM
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#5
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Juried Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: London,UK
Posts: 640
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Dear Mike,
thank you for the insight which as usual is so articulate. I think the solution is to keep weaning myself from photo reference. I am quite free from the colour rendition, so that is why I am only concerned with the white balance in photographing paintings. The next step will be to recognize and correct distortion, or better to be able to use it when and where I think it might be needed.
Lacey I am very tempted to get this lens, if only to take away a few grams from the traditional heaviness of Nikon cameras. At the moment I have no commissions and am mainly working on still lifes (hence less posting on the forum), but I will have to make a decision on my equipment sooner or later.
Thank you very much to both of you for replying to my doubts
Ilaria
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03-06-2007, 07:20 AM
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#6
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PHOTOGRAPHY MODERATOR SOG Member '03 Finalist Taos SOPA '03 HonMen SoCal ASOPA '03 Finalist SoCal ASOPA '04 Finalist Taos SOPA
Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,674
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Lacey,
That's a very good and inexpensive solution. I have become so used to composing with the zoom lenses that I forget the fixed are much cheaper. I didn't realize you could get a lens that fast and that cheap.
__________________
Mike McCarty
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03-09-2007, 06:20 PM
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#7
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PHOTOGRAPHY MODERATOR SOG Member '03 Finalist Taos SOPA '03 HonMen SoCal ASOPA '03 Finalist SoCal ASOPA '04 Finalist Taos SOPA
Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,674
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Here is a new lens offering from Leica. A similar fixed 50mm lens as discussed above that is very fast at f1.4. The cost of this lens will be $1499. Obviously, there is a wide range of quality to choose from.
As I rationalize my inability to purchase these high dollar gadgets I remind myself that there is a difference between photos that are the end product, being judged on their technical merit, and photos that we interpret and use as reference. Still, within our (my) price range there exists good and bad products. You have to do your homework.
The release reads:
The new LEICA D SUMMILUX 25mm/F1.4 lens (35mm equivalent: 50mm) is a bright, large-diameter F1.4 standard lens. It incorporates an aperture ring and boasts as many as 10 lens elements in 9 groups, including a large-diameter aspherical lens, which assure a superb optical performance and F1.4 brightness, while one super ED (extra-low dispersion) lens and three ED lenses reduce color bleeding to an absolute minimum.
__________________
Mike McCarty
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