Olive oil for cleaning brushes?

[Richard Budig]

I heard a painter (somewhere) say he/she (it's been a long time) used that redish lamp oil they make for those wick things that float on water/oil. (Can this be right?) Anyway, it supposedly worked great for cleaning brushes.

As for olive oil -- it's too expensive, and tastes too wonderful in sautees and salads.

Otherwise, I use a good swish in my cleaning can, and then soap and water until they're clean.

[Juan Martinez]

Hi Richard

I too have heard of artists using Kerosene (I wonder if that is the stuff you're thinking of?). In fact, I have a friend who swears by it. She just leaves the stuff in her brushes overnight after a decent cleaning in the kerosene. The next day, she cleans them off with mineral spirits and/or some oil and she's good to go. She claims the brushes stay soft and don't spread out or anything. She uses soap-and-water on them about once a week, only. Her reference for using kerosene is from a text describing the studio practice of an apprentice of the 19th century British painter, sir Gerald Kelly.

I'd be curious to know what is wrong with kerosene, as I have no doubt there is something. My guess is that it leaves way too many residues behind.

Also, if anyone is reading this who participated in the thread originally, I have it on some relatively good authority that Loriva brand walnut oil is a good one to use. It is apparently pure and can be found even at supermarkets (as opposed to health food stores). In either case, it is surely less expensive than "artists" brands. I often use sunflower oil or safflower oil, but the good thing about walnut oil is that it is a true drying oil and can be used in the painting, which the other ones cannot. (Without a drier added, safflower will not dry.)

Juan

[Marvin Mattelson]

Juan,

I had a student using kerosene in one of my workshops. It caused another student who was working nearby to get pretty sick. I think the fumes are pretty toxic.

I have tried various walnut oils for brush cleaning. In my experience the non-artist ones are thicker so the sediment stays suspended. This requires more frequent replacing of the oil in my cleaning jar. The M Graham walnut oil isn't as viscous so it can be used for a longer period of time before I dump it out.

[Steven Sweeney]

The artist who 8 years ago generously gave me her copy of John Carlson's "Carlson's Guide to Landscape Painting" had inserted a note indicating that some of the materials information was outdated, such as the reference to cleaning brushes with kerosene. She did not, however, say why, though the earliest copyright date on the book is 1929 and the simple fact is that plenty of science has been brought to bear on the subject since then.

I mention it only to offer one possible source for the advices that have led others to use kerosene, since this is a very frequently referenced text. Without recommendation or comment as to the soundness of this practice, I note Carlson's advice:

For the best care of brushes, I recommend keeping on hand a small (2-quart) pail, preferably of enamelware, filled with kerosene. Immediately after the day's painting, wash or swab the brushes out in the kerosene and wipe dry with a rag, much in the manner of a water-color brush in water. I have found this method much more conducive to long life in a brush than any other method. * * *

Never abuse your brush with soap and scrubbing. Use kerosene. If a brush becomes hard and stiff with old paint, through neglect, do not throw it away; soak it for half an hour in a good paint remover and then rinse it in kerosene. Wipe with a rag.

As an end note, I was amused there by the words "through neglect." Those familiar with Carlson's manner will know that he is not reticent to point out the failures and inadequacies inherent in the careless thinking and procedures of "the beginner."

[Steven Sweeney]

I want to emphasize that the Carlson reference is not intended to discount the intervening research that shows kerosene to be neurotoxic, as are various other substances we use as solvents.

Some folks are much more sensitive to this than others. I think I could probably drink turpentine without ill effects (assuming the use of a good, fresh lime), but my use of it in painting in a studio setting used to make a fellow student, working some distance from me, actually break out in hives.

Individual decisions have to be made based on circumstances and preferences. And of course the piper will have to be paid.

[Peter J. Fasi]

I have been using Mineral / Baby oil for some time now, because it is fairly inexpensive, because the smell doesn't smell so oily and because it works. I simply fill half my cleaning jar with it and swirl the brush against the wire mesh in order to clean off the paint. The paint particles simply drop to the bottom and the oil stays pretty clear for a very long time (depending on how often you paint). In between session I pour the 'used' oil through a coffee filter into a similar sized jar, transfer the screen and lid to the other jar and I'm ready to go.
I don't have to be concerned about toxicity. I conditioning the brushes as I use them, and it wipes off cleanly without any oily residue.

For me, this is amuch better alternative than the water-miscable oils.
I tried using them and did not like the feel (too sticky). I also prefer to have a much larger choice of traditional oils, in larger sizes.

Best of all, my wife no longer complains about the awful smell (unless I use certain Winton oils, which for some reason are particularly pungent).

[Marvin Mattelson]

Peter,

Baby oil never dries so you need to be very careful to remove all residue as this will weaken your paint film. That's why I use co;ld pressed walnut oil to clean my brushes.

[Peter J. Fasi]

Thanks for the info. I always wipe the brush vigorously between paint application, so it shouldn't pose a problem. I'll check out the walnut oil, though.

[Geary Wootten]

I've been hand lettering and pin-striping for 33 years. What I was taught from some of the best "1-shot

[Marvin Mattelson]

I just wanted to clarify that I use the method I do for cleaning synthetic brushes. It's my experience that any type of solvent will prematurely age them. I use the Silver Ruby Satins and the Winsor Newton Galleria rounds. Cleaning them with M Graham walnut oil followed by ivory soap seems to do the trick for me.