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02-02-2008, 03:12 PM
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#1
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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The Celcius degrees are. : 0 is when water freeses, 37 is human temperature, 100 water boil.
I guess that water boil at a lover temperature in the mountains, but that can not be of much importance if you know about it, just give it a little longer.
The good thing by using water is that you don't need a thermometer, you know that the temperature is just above 100 as long as the steam is coming up. It takes time for the water to evaporate so you just put a little more into the soup.
Yes, it is important to stir it all the time. Afterwards you will let it precipitate in a glass jar for several day's. When the superfluous lead has settled on the buttom of the glas you pour the oil in another glas bottle ready to use when mixed with Mastix.
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02-02-2008, 04:25 PM
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#2
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Blackfoot Id
Posts: 431
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For some time it's occurred to me to re-cook the precipitated "sludge" with new oil . . . but I haven't done it yet. Have you tried it? (litharge is getting tougher to come by . . . people worry we're building explosives!)
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02-02-2008, 04:48 PM
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#3
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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I thought that lead was against bombs, as in nuclear!
I havn't reused the remains, yet, but maybe it's worth a try. If we add an ammount of fresh lead? The worst that can happen is that it dries sooner or later.
By the way, I plan to built some Flake White Oilpaint. As you may know it's not allowed here in Denmark, so it's very exciting stuff, but don't tell anybody, ssshhhh.
If I manage to do that I will use the coarser parts of it to make Megilp/Marogers Medium.
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02-02-2008, 04:57 PM
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#4
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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By the way, how will you add water to Megilp / Black Oil? by adding egg ?
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02-02-2008, 07:54 PM
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#5
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Blackfoot Id
Posts: 431
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Allan, we're comrades in arms! I've been mulling my own white lead for several years, because I couldn't find a flake white that "worked" like what I was used to years back.
Mull your white lead in the black oil . . . I think you'll really like it!
You're right . . . biggest problem re-using the dregs is how to measure the quantity. That may not be much of an issue, since only a certain amount of litharge will go into solution in the oil anyway. ?? I don't know, but I'm inclined to try it. We'll have to keep in touch on this.
It only takes a single drop of water for a spoonful each of black oil and mastic to hasten the gelling process. Emulsions are something I've been promising myself to try, but haven't yet.
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02-02-2008, 08:04 PM
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#6
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Richard, could you start a new topic about making Flake White?
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02-02-2008, 08:08 PM
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#7
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Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Blackfoot Id
Posts: 431
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Sure! Why not?
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02-02-2008, 08:09 PM
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#8
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Bingham
You're right . . . biggest problem re-using the dregs is how to measure the quantity.
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I don't think that it is easy to overdose the lead contend.
Another use for the waste is to make priming for new canvas out of it.
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02-02-2008, 08:24 PM
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#9
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Juried Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Location: 8543-dk Hornslet, Denmark
Posts: 1,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Bingham
Mull your white lead in the black oil . . . I think you'll really like it!
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I have been using the Megilp to mix into my Titanium White and like it wery much. It dries overnight and is less stringy.
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